Spring Break 2024/Andalusia, Spain (Madrid)/6-7 April

Madrid

Today was a rough morning.  Had to get up very early and leave before dawn. I could not take a bus because there were none at the time I had to be at the train station.  I would have either been late or had to be there nearly 2 hours early.  Train to Madrid--6:56 AM.  So I walked.  There were drunk people everywhere, it was so weird.  At 6:30 in the morning?  The Google Maps walk there was not good.  I had to backtrack twice and finally switched to Apple Maps which got me there easily.  You are supposed to be there 15 minutes early, after security, I got on the train about 5 minutes before it left.  There was a man from India with a dog in a crate.  He put the crate in the luggage area at the back of the car, but if the man was not in sight, the dog would whine--loudly.  The train stopped and everyone got off about 1/2 an hour before we were supposed to be in Madrid.  I went and asked someone and they said, oh, you missed Madrid!  No, we were actually IN Madrid--at the station I was supposed to be at!  I took a subway to the stop nearest my hostel.  The hostel had messaged that I could leave my bags at 12:00 but it was only 11:15 so I found a grocery store (Dia) and got a bread, water, and 2 mandarin oranges (for less than one Euro!).  I found a little park with benches and ate most of it by the time I needed to head to my hostel.

A pretty street scene with flowering trees

I found my hostel and rang the intercom.  It was answered by a man who just kept yelling "no" when I said that I was leaving my bags.  I tried again--same thing.  Then someone was going in and held the door for me, so I went up to the first floor and the door was open.  A young woman met me at the door, knew my name, showed me around, gave me keys, and said I could come back at 3:00.  I had already checked in last night online.  Cool.  Found another plaza and finished eating my bread and oranges, then headed off with a list of things to see.  

A monument honoring immigrants

The closest thing to me seemed to be Puerte de Alcalá.  It is one of five ancient royal gates that gave access to the city of Madrid.  Puerte de Alcalá has the notoriety of being built to commemorate the entrance to Madrid of Queen Margaret of Austria, the wife of Philip III.  The name is due to the fact that it was located on the road used to go to Alcalá de Henares.  It is the first neoclassical granite arch built after the fall of the Roman Empire.  It is older than both the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin and the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.   It was quite pretty with flowers planted on both sides of it. 

Right behind/in front of (?) the gate, was the El Retiro Park.  It used to belong to the Spanish Monarch and was used as a spiritual retreat for the kings of Spain.  In fact, the name means retreat.  It was created in 1630 as part of the Buen Retiro Palace.  It is 300 acres, almost as large as New York's Central Park (at 340 acres).  There were people everywhere, as well as several events going on.  There were special events going on all over the city--many people dressed up in character costumes were around as well--I don't know why.  There was even an animal rescue event, with many dogs, near my hostel.  

This is a bandstand with couples dancing to music on it

Next I was walking toward the Royal Palace of Madrid and the Almudena Cathedral (facing the same plaza), but I went via the Gran Via.  the Gran Via is the most famous street in Madrid.  It was built to link the two neighborhoods of Salamanca and Arguelles.  It is .8 miles long, full of night spots, shopping, and popular fashion retailers in historic buildings.  

This was a Christian festival--Redeemer Fest.  
Complete with Christian Rock Groups.

The Gran Vía

And thus I reached the Royal Palace.   To go inside the Royal Palace, one needs to order tickets in advance and they are almost $40 each!  Since I didn't really know my time line for Madrid, I did not order tickets.  I did, however, go to the Cathedral (that is free, no tickets required).  It was a typical cathedral.  

This is Oriental Plaza in front of the Royal Palace.

This lion was in several places around the city in addition to 
other creatures

The Royal Palace

And across the plaza, the Cathedral

With painted ceilings

The main altar

A very popular side altar

Double sided benches to be able to face whichever altar was being used

Then I walked to the Plaza Mayor (in English:  Town Square).  It is a large plaza right in the center of Madrid.  It was full of people, but I was still able to move around.  There were some street performers and tons of cafes, even a tennis court set up for some promotion.  Then I went out one of the arches and down an alley to the Chocolateria San Ginés--THE best place for churros.

The plaza

the tennis court set up in the plaza

Walking away from the plaza

I watched several videos and read several posts of things to do in Madrid and they all said to get churros at the Chocolateria San Ginés.  One of them said that it is open 24 hrs a day.  That is not verified though.  So I went and got in line.  I met a man from Chicago and a woman from Poland that now lives in Germany (Köln).   I finally got my churros, but all of the tables were full (I was chased away from one by a woman waving a receipt and speaking rapidly in Spanish--I had just asked her husband with the baby if he was waiting for the table).  So I walked down the street and around a few corners to find a curb to sit on and enjoy my churros!  They were SO good.  You dip the churros into a cup of chocolate, and since it is a chocolatier, it is good chocolate.  Yum!  Definitely a must-do!  

When I was walking in the park earlier, I checked my email and received an email from Air France informing me that my flight from Paris to Chicago was going to be delayed by several hours which would mean that I would miss my connection from Chicago to Minneapolis, but that they would book me on the next flight.  So after the churros I went back to my hostel and checked Air France and could find nothing about a rebooked flight.  I was advised online to download the Air France app so I did, hoping to get better information.  But then that wouldn't allow me to join--aaargh--it was all such a hassle.  I tried to get the sight to email me the itinerary then, but is switched me to a KLM sight.  So I found a customer service link and used that.  But that was an automated customer service agent who kept giving me the run around.  I kept texting it to give me a person.  After about 20 minutes it did. She said that yep, they had canceled my flight from Chicago to Minneapolis, but that there were no other flights to book me on.  (Really, no flights from Chicago to Minneapolis??  There are always a ton of flights between Chicago and Minneapolis).  Anyway, she said that she could change my booking from Madrid--Paris--Chicago--Minneapolis to Madrid--Amsterdam--Minneapolis and that I would arrive around noon instead of 7:30 at night.  So, of course, I said okay book it.  She said that they would email me the confirmation. Unfortunately, the first flight takes off at 6:00 am.  With needing to plan an hour for public transit to get me to the airport, that means getting up at 1:00 am.  Have I mentioned before that I am NOT a morning person?  Well, I checked on Google Maps for transit to the airport at that time of morning and it said that I could take a series of 2 subway trains to the airport and it would take 56 minutes.  OK, time to go out and get dinner before coming back, packing and falling asleep around 9:30.  

April 7

I woke up, showered, and packed the last of my things, then headed out.  Once outside, I checked my transit options and the 2 subways now would take 4 1/2 hours!!!  I could take a couple of buses, but it would still take over an hour.  So I decided to wimp out and call an Uber.  Well, that said that they could have someone there in about 1/2 an hour.  I was not going to sit out on the curb for half an hour at 2:00 in the morning!  I was staying on a pedestrian street, so I walked a few blocks over to a busier street and was intending to hail a cab.  But I checked Uber again, and they could get one there in 9 minutes, so I did that.  I waited on a curb in front of a pizzeria that was open.  There were many takeaway food places open to feed the many drunken people at that time of the morning.  Eventually I saw my ride across the street and ran over and got in.  It was considered a "comfortable" ride, so it cost a bit more.  But he got me to the airport in 1/2 an hour.  By this point I still hadn't received a confirmation from KLM so I was only hoping that I had a flight to Amsterdam.  I arrived at the airport, found the right set of counters, and was among others also waiting for a customer service agent to appear.  They all seemed to need to check their bags.  Eventually, two agents appeared and I got in line.  At my turn I said that I didn't need to book a bag, I just needed customer service.  So she looked up my flights for me and told me that I was indeed on both flights.  Then she printed out a boarding pass that had both flights on it so that I wouldn't have to worry about transfers or anything.  On neither of my flights was I on the aisle, but it was okay.  I slept most of my flight from Madrid to Amsterdam, but then couldn't sleep and watched movies and read my book from Amsterdam to Minneapolis (that was a long flight).  Eventually I arrived to a rainy city and my husband picked me up at the airport.  Getting through immigration was super long--too many arrivals and not enough agents.  Back to home sweet home.  Unpack and then probably a nap.

Spring Break 2024/Andalusia, Spain (Granada)/5 April

This is the view of and from my balcony.

 This morning was my morning to sleep in.  The only thing on my must do list was visit the Alhambra, so I slept in until 10:00 and was out the door by 11:00.  After getting so tired yesterday, I decided to take the bus.  Also, I twisted my ankle on a loose board on my hike and my ankle is fine but my knee hurts now.  So for my lungs and my knee, I took a bus.  I saw the right number before I got to the right plaza so I jumped on and asked Alhambra?  Yes, so I paid and we went!  The buses they use for the center of the city are mini buses--they are so cute!  We were in a mini bus to go up there.  I stopped on my way to the bus to buy a chocolate croissant--my first "breakfast" of my trip!  I had a handful of nuts while walking around--they have signs that say "No Eating" (except in Spanish)--everywhere at the Alhambra (yet they have a few souvenir shops that sell ice cream and snacks-hmmm).  

The Alhanbra was huge, but way better organized than the Real Alcazar in Seville.   It is divided into four areas, each with signs in a different color.  My tickets for the Palacios Nazarines were for 1:00 and they are VERY strict about that.  So I had a few hours and went to the first area--the Generalife--the summer palace and country estate of the Nasrid rulers of the Emirate of Granada in Al-Andalus built in the 14th century.  Every small room led onto a courtyard or garden, so a lot of it was outside.  Generalife is translated from the Spanish as "garden of paradise", "orchard" or "garden of feasts".  You first walk through fields (rooms) of gardens.  They are currently working on the gardens to reclaim and regrow the cypress trees and plants that were not taken care of (to form the borders and topiary)--years of neglect and renovations.  Many have fountains in them and several have irrigation canals.  Water is very important to the Islamic culture, Muslims drink water for protection, for blessing, and for cure.  It is used at weddings to bless the bride and groom, for mothers after giving birth, and for babies and sick people.  The hydraulic system in the Alhambra depends on the Sultan's Canal, which carries water from the Darro River to the Generalife, and from there, by aqueduct, to the Alhambra.  

Part of the aqueduct right by the entrance

Cypress archways

The gardens leading to the palace

A view of the Alcazaba

Inside the palace

me!  With Alcazaba in the background

Those windows at the top are carved and
the ceiling is inlaid wood

water flowing even in the walls and handrails

wisteria

 After leaving the Generalife, you walk toward the Palacio Nazaries and the Alcazaba--a 15 minute walk. In that area is the Convento de San Francisco.  When Spain was conquered by the Christians, they gave Granada to the Franciscans.  So they set up their convent in one of the palaces vacated by the Nazarines.  The palace they chose also contained the Muslim baths (similar to Turkish baths, but related to the beliefs of Islam).  It is now being used as a hotel.

Honeycomb ceilings

skylights in the baths

One of the baths

There were streets in the complex, now the old shops are filled with tourist-type of shops.

 Now it was nearly time for the Nasrid Palace so I sat in a courtyard to wait for the last 15 minutes.  Then I went to get in line and realized that it was the line for the Alcazaba.  So I had to retrace my steps and saw a worker pointing another couple in the right direction.  There are signs with arrows for each palace, but they are not very clear.  So I finally went into the palace.  Lots of courtyards and beautiful tile work.  (Get ready--lots of photos!)

Wooden ceiling inlaid with ceramic.

Partially painted wooden beam.

Wooden floor inlaid with tiny ceramic tiles.

Beautiful tile work

Inlaid ceiling

Carved arch

Close up of a tile written in Arabic(?)

Ceiling

Courtyard with reflecting pool and fountain

Ceiling

Notice the carved windows

Such detail!

Again, carved screens

Wonder where those go to?

Courtyard

Painted ceiling of a battle.  The person in the 
carriage seems quite pleased with how it is going.

Water bisects the courtyard

This is the fountain of the lions.  The lions show the
might of the King.

stained glass ceiling

Another courtyard, this with trees and bushes

These are the skylights of the baths (we didn't get to see the baths)

The courtyard from before

Orange Trees

These trees look like popsicles!

Interesting topiary

This courtyard has a pool filled with koi

A water channel running down the center of the steps

After the Palace, I went to the Alcazaba (which in Arabic means fortress).  It was not quite as fancy as the palace, but it is for the soldiers and for defense.  

I love this face!

The barrio, or neighborhood where the higher ranking
soldiers who were tasked with protecting the King lived.

The outer walls on the edge of the hill

More of the upper level soldiers' quarters

The walls

This is the koi in the pool from the previous section.  The 
software won't let me put it where it is supposed to go.  

After the Alzcaban, there was only one more building that I saw, the Palacio de Carlos V which also houses the Museum of Alhambra and the Museum of Bellas Artes.  The museums are upstairs so there is very little to look at other than the center courtyard and the museums.

After that, I exited and decided to walk back to town.  It was all downhill, literally.  

I was going back to my hostel to rest my knee but decided to stop in the Plaza Nueva to find lunch.  I was looking for a sandwich because it was already past 3:00.  I found a cafe selling Turkish sandwiches which sounded really good.  I got a falafel sandwich which was very good.  It had been quite windy all day which was generally okay because the temperatures were in the mid-80s.   As I was eating however, the wind picked up and knocked my glass of soda over (all over my library book that I was reading as I ate) and spilled lettuce and onion from the sandwich that I was eating.  I had to hold onto my food as I finished, then as I was waiting for them to clear.  I eventually asked for the bill which I had to take inside to pay as he finally cleared my table which kept everything from flying off all over.  Then back to my hostel for a rest.  

This is a fountain that has something to do with Napoleon.

A stream running all the way down the hill--one on each side of the street.

A gateway into the old city?  Or into the area leading to the
Alhambra (which is now filled with homes). 

After a few hours, I went back out and went to the Silk Market to buy a few things, and decided that since it was 7:30 I should probably get dinner.  When I checked in my hostel yesterday, the woman said that if you buy a drink at one of the bars, you receive a complimentary tapas.  So, I decided to celebrate my last day in Andalusia with a glass of wine.  The complimentary tapas was brought over and it was a small ham sandwich and Fritos!  Ha-ha, how weird!  Everyone else in the bar was receiving the same tapas.  I'm not sure how other bars handle it.  I think, generally, tapas is better shared with others, where you can order several foods and share them.   Tomorrow is a very early train.  It's going to be hard sleeping though.  Even though I finally closed the balcony doors, I can still hear the people at the bar down below.  I am in the old town with the warren of small streets.  My favorite part of any city.